Diva daVino is the chronicle of one woman's pursuit of wine in a beer town - Fort Wayne, Indiana. My goal is to share information on what I find in the pursuit of that glass - the wine, the place, and the personal reason or public event which creates the link between them. And, hopefully, encourage readers to try something new in their own glass, their own town, their own life.
Wednesday, November 20, 2013
Saturday, November 16, 2013
Beaujolais Nouveau- the white wine of red wine opens Thursday, November 21, 2013.
Ever watch a farmer walk his cornfield pulling off ears at random, peeling down the husk, and then shoving it in your face so you too can see what he sees – the harvest that those ears, those stalks will become at some future date? Beaujolais Nouveau is the wine equivalent of those ears of corn. Harvested, processed, and ready to be drunk in less than ten days.
I say buy one of each Beaujolais Nouveau you can find. It is
the perfect Thanksgiving dinner wine gift as its cachet transcends it price
point (under $20), and is described as “a festive wine to be gulped rather than
sipped” by www.winecountrytravel.com/France.
To serve at the recommended 55 degrees, chill in the refrigerator for a couple
of hours, or twenty minutes in the freezer, or about ten minutes in a bucket of
ice and water.
You’ll find:
Joseph Drouhin – the family-owned
winery was established in 1880. In the early 1950s, according to
www.drouhin.com, they were the first to bottle and ship Beaujolais Nouveau.
Their list of wines is produced from their own vineyards most of which are
“premiere” or “grand” cru. Choose from Beaujolais Nouveau, Beaujolais-Villages
Nouveau, and Beaujolais–Villages Nouveau “Romane” named after a daughter of one
of the current managing family members.
Georges Duboeuf – the marketer and winemaker
credited with turning the release of Beaujolais Nouveau from a traditionally
local harvest festival into a worldwide marketing extravaganza post-World War
II. Duboeuf is a negociant buying
grapes from hundreds of suppliers, then bottling under his own annual abstract
design label. One scandal that has contributed to Beaujolais Nouveau’s negative
reputation is dubbed “L’Affaire Duboeuf.”
Louis Jadot – a negociant of Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages,
and vineyard owner of estates in the crus of Moulin-a-Vent and Morgon. Best known
for their fine quality and expensive Burgundy wines, Maison Louis Jadot was
established in 1859 and not so long ago expanded into Beaujolais Nouveau under
the Domaine des Jacques label.
In addition to the above, look for Bouchard and Mommessin
according to Kevin Zraly’s “Complete Wine Course.”
Things you should know: Beaujolais and Beaujolais
Nouveau are not interchangeable terms nor identical wines; Beaujolais is one of
the main red wine-producing areas of Burgundy; Burgundy is one of the best wine
producing areas in the world; the two major grape varieties in Burgundy are
Pinot Noir and Gamay; all red Burgundies are made from Pinot Noir except
Beaujolais; the three quality levels of Beaujolais are (lowest to highest):
Beaujolais; Beaujolais-Villages; and Cru; Beaujolais Nouveau is made in Beaujolais
and Beaujolais-Villages but not in any of the ten crus: Brouilly, Chenas, Chiroubles, Cote de
Brouilly, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, Regnie, Saint-Amour; if you
want to party like the French on the third Thursday of November, click http://www.faccwinefestivals.com
for a map of French American Chamber of Commerce’s Beaujolais festivities.
Beaujolais has been called by my idol Lettie Teague, Wall Street
Journal, “one of the most versatile food wines in the world.” Beaujolais Nouveau, on the other hand, has
been called by Fritz Hahn, blogger, www.washingtonpost.com
“a better marketing gimmick than it is a wine.” Try them both this holiday
season! Saturday, November 9, 2013
Holiday Shopping Frenzy - what wine is coming to dinner with you?
(graphic courtesy of Matt Groening, The Simpson's)
Thanksgiving has been called “the number one wine-drinking day in America” making wine as ubiquitous as turkey at the contemporary Thanksgiving feast. Forty-eight million turkeys are expected to be consumed at dinner tables on the fourth Thursday in November. Figuring a minimum of one bottle per table, more likely two or three, and if you are in a wine-drinking crowd, more than that; a lot of wine will be purchased and drunk! So the question is – what wine are you bringing to dinner?
One of my favorite retail managers, Rocky, from my local
large specialty retailer, Cap n’ Cork,
recommends the following (all under $15): Pacific Rim Dry Riesling for
its versatility in complementing many foods; Kung Fu Girl Riesling for a
spicier meal; Columbia Valley Cellarmaster’s Riesling ($8) as a good match for
cheeses and desserts; Chateau St. Jean Gewurztraminer; Gruet Blanc de Noirs
outstanding for its salmon color; and Mark West Pinot Noir “if you want a wine
to carry you through the day, from first baste to last load of dishes.”
At the November 08 Cap n’ Cork wine-tasting, they were
pouring two of the recommendations - Columbia Valley Cellarmaster’s Riesling
($7.99). User reviews on various
websites pegged it as “an under $10 value Washington State wine.” Also poured was
Mark West Pinot Noir ($10.99) described on www.honestwinereviews.com as “one
of the most well-known Pinot Noirs out there.” To me, these are wines to buy for
people you know like them.
If you are interested in taking something to dinner that
reflects a little more imagination admittedly at a higher price point, ask the staff
(at the tasting, I purchased Ridge Vineyards Petite Sirah, Lytton Estates), or visit
“Thanksgiving Wine Guide” at www.bhg.com. Better
Homes & Gardens, or just “BH&G” as my Aunt Daleth called it, has a
broader spectrum of wine recommendations: sparklers as an elegant greeting upon
arrival; whites: Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling,
Gewürztraminer; reds: Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel, Beaujolais; rose; sweet
wines for dessert: Muscat, Port, Sauternes, Riesling or Gewürztraminer, or a
sweet sparkler.
The general rule of selections to pair well with the myriad
tastes and textures of Thanksgiving is low alcohol, high-acid, wine with a
touch of sweet. Missing from these lists is the number one selling wine in
America - Chardonnay. According to the experts, the sugar, salt, and fruit in
the feast will wreak havoc with a super-dry wine’s taste. If you like
Chardonnay, buy it and save it for later with leftover turkey sandwiches.
Tuesday, November 5, 2013
Growing great reds - Elyse Winery and their C’est Si Bon, Naggier Vineyard (Sierra Foothills) Red Wine
Where I come from, everyone wants to be a farmer.
Wherever there is land, there is someone dreaming of tilling
the soil encouraging it to bear fruit. In Iowa, my brother Michael dreamed of
corn and cattle. In New Jersey, a young Ray Coursen may have dreamt of the same
but when he arrived in California in 1983 his dream was of growing grapes for
his own wine.
Many years later after stints at Mt. Eden Winery and
Whitehall Lane Winery, farmer Ray Coursen and wife Nancy have established a winery
already endowed with the next generation of winemakers – daughter Elyse and son
Jacob Franklin.
Elyse Wines began as a label in 1987 buying grapes from the Morisoli
Vineyard and crushing at various facilities, finally finding a home in 1997
when the Coursen’s purchased a small winery and vineyard where they remain today.
Wine Spectator included them in “Hot New Wines from California” in June 1996
issue calling them “moonlighting winemakers.”
Elyse Winery self-describes as “focusing on small lots of
vineyard-designated reds” and “a boutique producer of single vineyard wines of
uncompromising quality.” Their website www.elysewinery.com has pages of awards beginning
with Wine Spectator’s 91 points for 2001 Zinfandel Howell Mountain through Wine
Enthusiast Magazine’s 93 points for 2009 Black-Sears Vineyard Zinfandel (Howell
Mountain).
My bottle of 2007 C’est Si Bon, Naggier Vineyard (Sierra
Foothills) Red Wine is on the list with July 2011 Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s 89
points calling it “a lovely balance of red fruit and soft texture that’s quite
enjoyable over the length of a meal from Napa-based Elyse, which sources the
red Rhone varietals in this wine from a high-elevation vineyard in the Sierra
Foothills” and July 2011 Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine’s 88 points.
I got the last 2007 bottle from my local favorite retailer
for $28.99. The winery lists the 2009 vintage at $28.00 and unfortunately, as “sold
out.” The 2010 vintage is included in the winery’s Thanksgiving Six Pack along with
2011 Sonoma Valley Chardonnay, 2008 Napa Valley Syrah, 2010 Black-Sears
Zinfandel, 2010 Napa Valley Petite Sirah, and 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Port. The website also lists distributors by state;
get a name and take to your own local favorite retailer and ask them to source Elyse
for you.
Elyse as a girl’s name means “God’s promise.” I’m guessing
that’s what my farming ancestors thought as they boarded boats from Germany and
ended up in Iowa tilling corn, soybeans, Holstein and Angus cattle, and a few
grapevines to remember the old country.
C’est Si Bon translates from French as “it’s so good.” Life is. Especially when drinking this wine with friends.
Sunday, November 3, 2013
I don't know art but I know what I like - Wine Tasting "Iron Horse "Wedding Cuvee" -
The tongue of an adult has, on average, between
2,000-8,000 taste buds and each taste bud has up to 100 taste receptor cells. Knowing
that, it does not come as a surprise that not everyone likes the same bottle of
wine. Or pie, or yogurt, or vegetable, or whatever.
Those scientific facts are why I like to attend wine
tastings with friends - we circulate around the distributor tables and share
our “finds.” The Joseph Decius fall wine tasting was great because they had
depth and breadth – 9 distributor tables each offering a minimum of six different
bottles ranging from ubiquitous to obscure across varietals and blends from
lowest of $13.49 per bottle to highest $107.29.
The
only unanimous favorite of my group (all female) was Iron Horse “Wedding Cuvee”
2007 ($44) offered by distributor D & E Wine & Spirits.
I am pre-disposed to
love Iron Horse as it is the label of choice of Hawk, close friend of private
detective Spenser in the television series Spenser:
for Hire. Played by Avery Brooks, Hawk was every man’s fear and every
woman’s desire. In the Robert B. Parker books, Hawk always had a bottle of Iron
Horse chilling for the occasion if you
know what I mean.
“Wedding Cuvee” is a
beautiful blush color made primarily from Pinot Noir grapes. According to the
winery website www.ironhorsevineyards.com,
“Iron Horse is probably best known for this cuvee.” The 2007 vintage is not yet
reviewed but previous vintages were awarded 91 points by The Wine Advocate’s
Robert Parker (no relation).
Sparkling wines are
Iron Horse’s well-deserved claim to fame. It has been served at the White House
by Presidents Reagan, Bush, Clinton, Bush, and Obama. Special cuvees have been
made for top chefs and restaurateurs, for Presidential occasions (“Russian
Cuvee” for Reagan/Gorbachev Summit; “Chinese Cuvee” for China’s future
President Xi’s visit), for Disney (“Fairy Tale Cuvee”), for National Geographic
(“Ocean Reserve”) with a portion of sales going to restore the ocean’s health
and abundance.
What
you should know when selecting this wine or any wine: 1)
LOCATION it’s from Sonoma County,
termed one of the “best wine regions on earth” by Kevin Zraly, Windows on the
World Wine School; 2) WINERY it’s
from a winery specializing in it (sparkling wine); 3) WINEMAKER the winemaker, David Munksgard, has 14 years at Iron
Horse and 16 before that in California’s Russian River Valley and New York’s
Finger Lakes region; 4) MARKETING &
MAKING these are estate grown grapes from a small, independent,
family-owned winery.
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